INCI Name: D-Panthenol
Application: moisturizing products
Appearance: Colorless or yellowish, clear, viscous liquid
Water Solubility: Soluble in water
Molecular Formula: C9H19NO4
Molecular Weight: 205.25
CAS No.: 81-13-0
Molecular Structure:
Storage and Shelf Life:
Keep it tightly closed, shielded from light, and keep it in a cool and dry place.
If strictly following the storage instruction, it can be stored well for 2 years.
Quality Standard:
|
Item |
Specification |
|
Appearance |
Colorless or yellowish, clear, viscous liquid |
|
Assay |
98.0 % ~102.0% |
|
Infrared Identification |
Conform to the reference |
|
Identification |
A deep blue color develops, a purplish red color develops. |
|
Specific optical rotation [α]D20 |
+29.0°~+31.5° |
|
Refractive index (20ºC) |
1.495~1.502 |
|
Water |
≤1.0% |
|
Residue on ignition |
≤0.1% |
|
Heavy metal |
≤ 10 ppm |
|
3-Aminopropanol |
≤ 1.0% |
As a derivative of vitamin B5, panthenol is an effective skin care active ingredient for skin moisturizing, soothing and repairing. Its specific mechanisms include: it is rapidly converted into vitamin B5 in the skin and participates in a variety of key enzyme reaction pathways as a key component of coenzyme A synthesis. It can moisturize and improve the barrier by moisturizing, promoting the lipid synthesis between cells in the stratum corneum, and improving its rigid environment; It can relieve oxidative stress injury and reduce inflammatory reaction; In addition, it also showed the role of promoting the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and promoting the repair of injury in the Asian human skin reconstruction full layer laser injury model.
Panthenol has three dermatological effects when applied locally on skin: moisturizing and improving barrier, soothing and promoting repair.
Efficacy 1: Moisturize and improve the barrier
The intercellular lipid in the stratum corneum is an important structure to maintain the skin barrier function. The latest research found that the intercellular lipid arrangement in the stratum corneum of dry skin is different, and it is in a rigid environment with poor mobility. Panthenol itself has the functions of moisture absorption and water retention, promotes lipid synthesis, increases the fluidity of lipid molecules and keratin microfilaments, improves the rigid environment between keratinocytes, and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier function.
Efficacy 2: Soothing
The soothing effect of panthenol mainly comes from two aspects. On the one hand, panthenol can protect against oxidative stress injury. Under the action of internal and external stress factors, cells will produce reactive oxygen free radicals. When the ability of cells to remove free radicals is insufficient, the accumulated free radicals will have adverse effects on skin health and aging. Panthenol can reduce the production of reactive oxygen free radicals in skin cells, and at the same time, it can up regulate the skin's own antioxidant mechanism, including inducing skin cells to express more antioxidant factors - heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), thereby improving the skin's antioxidant capacity. On the other hand, panthenol can reduce the inflammatory response. After stimulating keratinocytes with capsaicin, the release of inflammatory factors IL-6 and IL-8 is significantly increased. After panthenol treatment, it can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors, thus reducing the inflammatory response and relieving the inflammation.
Efficacy 3: promote repair
The repair of skin injury is a complex process, which mainly includes four stages: hemostasis, inflammation, proliferation and remodeling. The establishment and development of in vitro reconstructed skin models provide a convenient platform for evaluating the effects of products or active substances on the skin repair process.
L'Oreal has more than 40 years of research experience in the field of skin model reconstruction in vitro. It has successfully developed a full layer skin model for human body reconstruction in Asia. With well differentiated epidermis, mature cuticle, and active dermis, L'Oreal can better simulate the structure of healthy skin. On this basis, L'Oreal China R&D and Innovation Center further developed an in vitro reconstruction of full skin laser damage model, using carbon dioxide lattice laser to evenly drill tiny holes on the skin surface, forming columnar gasification areas and micro thermal damage zones, and starting the skin self repair mechanism.
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